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Monday, March 10, 2008

APOCALYPSE NOW


t's the end of the world as we know it, and as long as we're wearing Rick Owens's take on deconstructed futurism, we feel fine. This week, the Paris runways were ground zero for women who looked like they'd seen a frightening side of the future and yet survived it in style.

At Yohji Yamamoto, raw-edged leather was piled on like armor and topped off with nebulous hats that could easily protect from any blinding light. Jean Paul Gaultier's girls were ashen-faced with smudged eyes, one carrying a fox fur bag that summoned images of ammunition.

Ann Demeulemeester's passion for deconstruction went into overdrive, with countless layers and textures punctuated with metallic combat boots, while Viktor & Rolf's space-age black vinyl footwear was as reminiscent of defensive gear as was their message (painted clearly across a model's face): NO. Owens perhaps worked the trend best, reasoning that if you're going to go for dark, you might as well go completely lights-out.

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