The top floor and glass roof of the Paris Temple of Esotericism was the venue chosen by Gaspard Yurkievich to present his menswear collection for spring 2008. Bermuda shorts are certainly the centrepieces of the designer’s work this season. Sometimes delicately elaborated in pleats at the back, sometimes turned up at the bottom, they are worn with sleeveless pieces of light jersey and come in black, beige and are seen at their best in the season’s delicate shades form celadon blue to light jade.
To enhance the male silhouette for next spring, Bermudas are resolutely worn with town shoes, in lacquered “mirror” leather of two or three contrasting colours. Silver or grey are inlaid with emerald green in these fun and elegant pieces of footwear worn with very slack and brightly coloured see-through socks to underline the Bermuda line.
Suits at Gaspard Yurkievich also include Bermuda shorts, but the jackets’ collars are, this season, very slim. A black suit even forgets to turn the collar of a jacket keeping just the traditional split on either side of the chest, around the neck, as a memory of a male wardrobe’s symbol. The next look cleverly pushes forward the same statement and makes it very clear as the two same jacket collar splits are interpreted on an otherwise flat black jumper of jersey.
Sleeveless blouson jackets adorn their wide empty sides with an integrated belt for a cool effect. Worn on a very thin jersey top in shades of pastel, they create a delicate look for the 21st century young dandy.
Among the accessories, some big chain necklaces of sparkling silver did add style for young metrosexuals. But the bag in wickerwork looked too feminine to really appeal to men, just like the big eyeshade of the same material worn on the same look. The garments cut in a print of white and grey zebra-like pattern will certainly also be hard to sell.
In short, a delicate, elegant, innovative collection that could have benefited from a little more testosterone.
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